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Studies in Advertising and Consumption
Edited by Mica Nava, Andrew Blake, Iain MacRury and Barry Richards 1997
London: Routledge
Chapter 1
Paths to Mass Consumption
Britain and the USA since 1945
Frank Mort
Economic and cultural change in Western Europe and North America, From early 1959’s
“Shifts in productive organisation and output which underpinned the upsurge of consumer demand. The accelerated take-up of the technologies of mass production by consumer industries”
-Frank Mort page 15
‘Commodity specific chain’ – Ben Fine [Fine 1993: 600 & Fine and Leopold 1993, Mort 1996]
References:
Fine, B and Leopold, E. (1993) The world of consumption, London: Routledge.
Mort, F. (1996) Cultures of consumption: Masculinities and social space in Late Twentieth-Century Britain: London: Routledge.
“Distinguish between different moments in the consumer cycle – commodity manufacture and design, advertising, marketing, packaging, shopping and so on”
-Frank Mort page 17 line 10
Burton 1950 & 1960’s – Menswear Clothing
“From the 1930’s through to the mid 1950’s selling techniques relied on one clearly identifiable symbol of masculinity. This was the image of the gentlemen. The emblem not only dominated the advertising of the clothing multiplies, it also shaped the approach to customers at the level of the shop floor”
-Frank Mort page 20 para 4 line 3
Ideas portrayed through clothing
“Clothes were a public sign of social esteem.” -22 line 5
“clothes as an expression of status, manners as visible markers of distinction” -Class relations
-Frank Mort page 22 line 7
“Consumers were usually equipped with very imperfect knowledge of the marketplace and were easily influenced and persuaded”
-Frank Mort page 27 line 1
People on a low wage only spend a portion of it on necessities such as food, clothing and shelter
“with the rest consumers, sought to buy ‘psychological satisfaction’ and to express their individual personalities” [Laver 1947: 14-15]
- page 22 line 5
“The critical element here was what he termed the ‘atmosphere’ of the message. Atmosphere essentially involved subjective indicators, in particular the mood of consumers and their emotional response to products” –[Hobson 1961: 12]
Page 22 para 2 line 14 Hobson’s and crawford’s 1950’s??
Business examples, slogans.
London Press Exchange, earliest British attempts to sell via triple utopias of modernity, sex and status. “Their 1963 account, Getaway people, for National Benzole, carried the message ‘petrol for the with-it people’, the ‘people who did good things’ [Pearson and Turner 1965: 42]
“Ford Anglia car, produced in the same year, was anchored by the caption ‘Beauty with Long Legs’, accompanied by an image of a veiled [DEFINITION] and aloof [DEFINITION] woman with bare midriff.” [DEFINITION]
“Double Diamond –The Beer the Men Drink’, pictured men in a world of ‘affluent and jet-age leisure’: surfing, parachuting, water-skiing and mountaineering” [Pearson and Turner 1965: 149]
-Page 28 Para 2 line 6
“Atmospheric advertisements of this type reflected the soundings taken by market researchers on the social transformations which they believed has been set in train by the shift in consumption patterns”
-Page 28 Para 3
Chapter 2
Framing Advertising
Cultural analysis and the incrimination of visual texts
Mica Nava
“It seemed that everyday culture and social identity could now be manufactured at the whim of big business and the state apparatus... that social consciousness itself could be produced almost as effortlessly as the assembly lines were producing automobiles or bars of soap.” [Lee 1993: 98]
-Page 36
Reference:
Lee, Martyn (1993) Consumer Culture Reborn, London: Routledge
“Consumers are persuaded to buy goods against their real class interests because they are unable to escape the false meanings invoked by advertising” [Williamson 1978: 13]
-Page 36
Reference:
Williamson, Judith (1978) Decoding Advertisements: Ideology and Meaning in Advertising, London: Sage.
“(In France redheads are for some reason presumed to smell more, so advertisers are warned against using them for fragrance ads, campaign 13 May 1994)”
-Page 45
“It is not just how people interpret what ads are trying to say that is significant. It is also whether they are ‘hailed’ by them, whether they see themselves in the ad, whether the ad makes an impact.”
-Page 46 Line 1
People were becoming bored of advertising after being bombarded with signs
“In fact the battle of the advertisers to overcome this boredom is what has led to the creation of so many witty, sophisticated, intertextually referenced and visually appealing ads.”
-Page 46 Line 6
Chapter 4
The Benetton-Toscani Effect
Testing the limits of conventional advertising
Pasi Falk
A brief history of modern advertising
“The simplest way to define modern advertising – the beginnings of which took place in the second half of the nineteenth century – is to say that it is an active strategy of selling and marketing. This allows us to draw a line between the pre- and early modern announcements informing potential clients and customers of the existence and availability of a certain product. The active character of the strategy implies an intentionality which is about more than selling goods: The idea is first and foremost to stimulate demand and thereby to sell as much as possible.”
-Page 65
Mass Production
“Mass production expanded markets beyond local boundaries into national and international sphere, and as a consequence replaces the identity of products as the personal extensions of small-scale producers and local shopkeepers with anonymous mass-produced goods”
“Naming is the first step in the construction of an identity which, on the one hand, distinguishes a product from other more or less identical competing products and, on the other, enables the commodity to introduce itself in the imaginary face-to-face encounter with the consumer.”
“Messages are received by individual consumers who make choices (to buy or not to buy, to buy this or that)”
-Page 65
“However, an advert still has to sell the product. It has to produce the positive end effect of transforming the potential consumer into an actual consumer of the promoted item and has to ensure that the whole cycle, from representation to purchase and actual use, is repeated. In order to achieve this, conventional advertising still primarily uses the positive register of representation”
-Page 69 Para 3
The Benetton Affair
“mystery of the representational strategies in the catastrophe adverts. It is true that the campaign has made the name Benetton very famous, but to interpret this as proof of a deliberate marketing strategy is not particularly convincing.” “They operate primarily through non-sublimated shock effects” – Page 70
“The catastrophe ads series introduced in the early 1990’s takes the Benetton strategy one step further, and its effect is amplified by the secondary circulation. This is illustrated by the full-page (secondary) advert, promoting the annual conference of Finnish marketing professionals published in the leading Finnish newspaper (Helsingin Sanomat). The text translates: ‘The Trial of the Century: Benetton versus Mickwitz’. This refers to the banning of the Benetton ads by the state office of consumer affairs (represented by Mickwitz). So, the Benetton ads reach their audience even when banned.”
“This kind of secondary circulation has such a central role in Benetton’s promotional strategy that it would perhaps be more accurate to call it primary.”
-Page 76 Para 2 & 3
-Cover issues in their advertising such as AID’s, Race relations
Benetton “aim of showing people ‘the real thing’, and waking them up with shocking pictures of today’s reality, the circulation and reception of these representations is still based on the media spectacle/audience split which is characteristic of the consumption of media imagery and cultural good in general.” –Page 78
“The recent Diesel campaign promoting casual wear to young people is an example of advertising which transgresses conventional codes in this way: the ads draw on counter-cultural images of drugs and violence etc. And present carnivalised scenes of middle-class adult life”
-Page 80
Kadu Clothing
“published in Times magazine in July 1994, on its secondary circulation, as the Cannes prizewinning advertisement of the year. The elements of the representation are very much in line with the Benetton catastrophe ads: a real shark is cut open, there is real blood and a real (looking) human skeleton is emerging from the stomach – dressed, of course, in real brand-new looking Kadu clothes. Even though we may suspect that the scene has been set up and that it actually contains only one real death, that of the shark, the ‘reality’ effect is nevertheless there.”
“But it is not subsumed into the conventional advert message: Our products are good quality, they don’t lose their colour, even in the gastric acids of a shark, and their double seams can endure its sharp teeth. So, the good old advert format has proved its ability to incorporate the transgressive elements of Benetton ads and use them for conventional purposes” –Page 81
Chapter 13
Listen To Britain
Music, advertising and postmodern culture
Andrew Blake
“I argue that music is an important carrier of meaning, representing the invisible and unspeakable, capable of undercutting as well as underlining the visual content of any form of audio-visual representation.” –Page 225
“Again it should be underlined that the use of music is a topic hardly touched on in research into advertising and consumption. One interesting attempt to decode the role of music in advertising (Cook 1993) examines classical or classical-derived music as the foundation of adverts for cars and insurance, and concludes that music of this sort, associated with notions of high culture and explicit excellence, can offer an assurance to the potential buyer that the product is quite simply better than the competition” –Page 232
Chapter 20
When a meaning is not a message
A critique of the consumption as communication thesis
Colin Campbell
“when individuals in contemporary society engage with consumer goods they are principally employing them as ‘signs’ rather than as ‘things’, actively manipulating them in such a way as to communicate information about themselves to others.”
“It is commonly assumed that these individuals, in their capacity as consumers, engage with goods in order to achieve ‘self-construction’ (Langman 1992: 43)
“Claims by John Clammer to the effect that ‘shopping is not merely the acquisition of things: it is the buying of identity’ (Clammer 1992: 195)”
“Beng Huat Chau’s assertion that clothing ‘is a means of encoding and communicating information about the self’ (Chua 1992: 115)
“The perspective regards consumption as an activity in which individuals employ the symbolic meanings attached to goods in an endeavour both to construct and to inform others of their ‘lifestyle’ or ‘identity’, and hence that ‘consumption’ is, in effect, best understood as a form of communication.” –Page340
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